From Individual to Communal: The Transition of Chinese Dining Customs (Part 1)

When you walk into a Chinese restaurant, you will often see diners seated around a table,

with a variety of dishes placed in the centre for everyone to share. This is the well-known traditional Chinese dining style, in which sharing food plays a central role in culinary culture.

However, this was not always the case. More than 3,000 years ago, Chinese people primarily ate their meals individually rather than collectively. Archaeological findings and historical records indicate that diners used separate tables and individual tableware. This article, together with its sequel, examines the historical transition from early individual dining practices to the communal dining system that became prevalent in later periods.

Origins of the separate dining system

The separate dining system in China can be traced back to prehistoric times and developed over a span of several millennia. Communal dining did not begin to emerge until the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE), following a prolonged and gradual process of transformation.

In ancient times, productivity was extremely low, and food was mainly obtained through gathering wild fruits, fishing, and hunting. Because food resources were limited, communities prioritised survival by distributing food evenly among all members. Meals were minimally processed, and there were no dining tables. Once individuals received their allocated portion, they would stand or sit on the ground to eat. This practice marked the earliest form of the “separate dining system.” Scarcity of resources, low productivity, and limited food supplies led early societies to adopt a strict system of equal distribution.

Ritual, hierarchy, and individual dining

During the Zhou, Qin, Han, and Jin dynasties, people typically ate while sitting upright on mats, with their upper bodies straight and their knees resting on the mat. In front of each diner was a small, low table holding light tableware and individual portions of food, while heavier and larger utensils were placed on the ground outside the mat. Each person ate at their own table with separate dishes. At this stage, the practice of separate dining was influenced not only by production conditions but also by ritual concepts that reinforced social hierarchy and distinguished between the noble and the humble. As a result, separate dining carried both political and social significance.

According to the Book of Rites, when elders and younger people dined together, an 80-year-old should be served five dishes, a 70-year-old four dishes, and a 60-year-old three dishes, as a sign of respect for age. The principle of separate dining was reflected not only in the number of dishes served, but also in seating arrangements and toasting protocols. The dining etiquette recorded in the Book of Rites highlights the importance of hierarchical relationships between the old and the young in ancient society. These norms demonstrated respect for elders while helping to maintain social order and stability.

Furniture and the material foundations of dining practices

The prevalence of separate dining in early Chinese history was closely connected to the design and availability of furniture. During this period, large tables and high chairs had not yet become common. Instead, people sat on floor mats and used small, low tables for eating. These tables evolved from food trays that were later fitted with legs, allowing them to rest securely on the mat.

The structural limitations of such furniture made communal dining impractical. Without large shared tables, individual dining arrangements were not only more feasible but also more consistent with prevailing social and ritual norms. As a result, many scholars argue that the persistence of the separate dining system in ancient China was fundamentally linked to the widespread use of small, low tables.